Runway Report: Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011--Dior!!!

Dior Haute Couture...sans Galliano:

Fashion Darlings: Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Fashion Week began this past Monday and ended yesterday (I know, only three days!). So, naturally, I am here as your "Fashion Servant" to give you the highlights and my "Nick V. Two Cents" on what the top designers offered in terms of these rarefied hand-made $100,000+ clothes on the catwalks. These clothes are then either shown or lent to stylists for their famous Hollywood clients to wear to BIG Red Carpet events, given to fashion editors to feature in their magazines, or hopefully, ordered by that very small list of multi-millionaire clientele (estimated at just 400 in the entire World!) from Dallas to Dubai, Mumbai, Beijing and Shanghai.

First up: Christian Dior Haute Couture:

Cirque de Couture: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

This show, of course, was one of the most--if not THE MOST-anticipated show of the season. Obviously since, it was the first Dior Haute Couture showing following John Galliano's unceremonious departure and firing. Lots was expected of Bill Gaytten, who has taken over (for now) as the head of the Dior Design Team. He's been with John Galliano & Co. for over 20 years so if any one can sense what Galliano would have done and what direction he would have gone in, it would be him. Did he live up to this? It seems the reaction was mixed:

Here's a quote from Tim Blanks of style.com, of what he thought of the show and the clothes:
On the evidence of today's first Dior couture show without John Galliano, what happens is a misjudged effort to impress an alien thumbprint on an aesthetic that, for better or worse, is one of the fashion industry's most clearly defined......
Then came Karlie Kloss, dressed as a Pierrot, sad clown all alone in the spotlight as the soundtrack failed and glitter showered down. But the stardust missed her by this much. And that felt like some kind of crazy cosmic metaphor.
Ouch, I think...

Bronzed Twisted Princesses: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The show had three distinct sections. It began with lots of color, prints, stripes, all very "Cirque de Dior". Fall/Winter for the Dior Couture ladies will not be a dark and somber one. It also looked very 80's Neon/Maripol/Stephen Sprouse/Memphis Movement. The Dior Bar Jacket showed up several times, but somehow it's still didn't have the same effect when Galliano did his magic with it. The pleating, twisting and intricate draping that the Dior Couture House of petite mains are known for, was all there. But there seemed to be something missing...

Valley of the Dior Dolls: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

The second section was a "Caftan" late 1970's "Disco" section and to be honest, after looking at the photos and the video, this was my favorite part of the show and I almost wish Creative Director Bill Gaytten and his Dior Design Team would have done a complete collection of Caftans, almost as a cleansing of the Galliano aesthetic. I just wished the entire show was ONE STRONG Statement a la "Flower Power Dior" (Fall 2010 Collection), "Dior Goes Equestrian" (Spring 2010 Collection), or "Tutankhamen Dior", but instead this one had several and they were rather incohesive. It should have been all "Caftan Valley-of-the-Dolls Couture!".

Petticoat Clowns: Christian Dior Fall/Winter 2011 Haute Couture

Of course, in the end, there were Ball Gowns. Huge, entrance-making ones. This was supposed to be the "Grand Finale" but again, these out-of-control gowns fell flat--especially on a runway that was not wide enough for them (what happened there?). The gown above is the one Tim Blanks was referring to--the (somewhat sad) Pierrot Clown Gown. It is definitely difficult to carry on after Galliano and only time will tell, if he will succeed. Don't miss the designer (and his assistant Susanna Venegas) uncomfortable bow at the end of the video...

Click Below for Full Video of the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2011 Show:

Christian Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano Runway Show Video Look Back--Part One

An Haute Couture Legacy...a Runway Video Look Back:

Cleopatra Meets Tutankhamen Couture: Spring/Summer 2004

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2004 Part 1:

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2004 Part 2:

Madama Butterfly Couture: Spring/Summer 2007

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 1:

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 2:

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 3:

Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2007 Part 4:

Les Artistes Couture: Autumn/Winter 2007

Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 1:

Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 2:

Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 3:

Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007 Part 4:

Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2011: Christian Dior

A Tribute to René Gruau...

Grace Kelly 2011: Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2011 Fashion Week began yesterday in Paris, following the Menswear Shows--and so the "Oscars Gowns Race" begins...First up Christian Dior Haute Couture by John Galliano.

Theme: It was a Tribute to renowned illustrator... René Gruau (above) who worked for numerous magazines including Elle, L'Officiel, Vogue, and Marie Claire, among others, as well as doing several of the Dior ad campaigns.

He gave life to the stunning Haute Couture creations in the magazines showing the exaggerated shapes and ultra elegant emotions only Haute Couture can emote. As a result, Gruau popularized and expanded its worldwide appeal.

Oscar Gown, No Alterations Needed: On a non-5'11" actress, this will hit the FLOOR, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Trends: For Spring 2011, Galliano played on the "Ultimate Dior Muse": Wasp-waisted, 50's silhouettes; High-low (shorter in front, longer in back) dresses; Grace Kelly in Monaco-meets-Princess Soraya of Iran; Vermillion reds, rose pinks, nudes, ivory, bronzed copper, ombre iridescent shadings; Gowns, Gowns and More Gowns (it's COUTURE darlings!).

Office Couture: Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Tim Blanks, of Style.com said this: It was remarkable that such extravagance managed to capture the speed, the spontaneity, the airiness, even the economy of the illustrator's work. Opulently swagged tops and gowns bobbed and floated like billowing sails. One utterly gorgeous thing hid roses in clouds of white marabou. Dior's New Look was an obvious source point for skirts that flared from corseted waists or dropped pencil-thin to below the knee from rounded hips.

Here I offer some of my favorites which you might see at the Academy Awards Red Carpet...

High-Low Ball: Rose pink strapless ball gown, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Pink Swan Natalie Portman Couture: Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Tilda Swinden: Strapless Gown, Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011

Vintage Dior: Another "Oscar Candidate", The "twisted drape" strapless gown above from Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011 reminds me A LOT of...

This iconic Compiègne ball gown from Dior's 1954 Collection. Sublime...and worth repeating. Kudos Galliano and House of Dior Haute Couture Atelier!

Click Below for Dior Haute Couture Spring 2011 Runway Video:

Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010: Christian Dior

Couture FlowersToday at 2:30 PM Paris time, the Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2010 show at the Musee Rodin in Paris took place. Recently metaled as a Chevalier of the Legion of Honor... Designer John Galliano, showed a stunning collection--loved by critics Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes alike--inspired by Dior's 1953 Spring/Summer "Tulip" Collection, famous for its 3-D effect embroidery, exquisite bright colors, and of course, those iconic full ball gowns."May" silk organza with green-and-purple silk-floss embroidery evening gown, Dior 1953 Spring/Summer

The Fall/Winter 2010 Haute Couture Collection was an explosion of vivid colors, blooming voluminous shapes, grand ball gowns, hand-painted watercolor prints, ruffles, tulle and stiff duchesse satins galore! Take a look:Water every other day: One shoulder ballgown with full black netting skirt and iridescent silk petal drapes, Dior F/W Haute Couture 2010
J'ai Froid: Cobalt-blue cocoon coat with "torn-ruffle" neckline, Dior F/W Haute Couture 2010
Making an Entrance: Cerulean-blue, pink and ivory colored ball gown, Dior F/W Haute Couture 2010

If this is Fall, then bring on the snow kiddies! Maybe Fall in Dubai and Bahrain possibly, where a lot of his exclusive Couture clients probably come from. The details were also extravagant, my favorite being the bulb-shaped upturned hairdos wrapped in neon-colored cellophane. The effect was incredible, as seen from these photos; the head was wrapped like the stems of a bouquet with the dress serving as the incredibly colorful floral arrangement! Suitings were decisively more Fall-like in their fabrications... Such as the angora tailleur above and below. They enveloped the models like comfy cardigan sweaters but were fitted and interfaced to a 1/4" of their size 2 figures.To be honest, I liked the suitings and cocktail dresses more than those almost-too exaggerated ball gowns (I know, what part of Galliano don't you understand!). They were grand for sure, but lost in them was the elegant draped delicacy that Christian Dior's original ball gowns had.

The New Heel: Lower and less chunky ladies. Put those platform pumps in the closet and time to get closer to the Rue de Rivoli pavement!
Out: Thicker bolder heels that have become the most coveted styles in the past few seasons have now been replaced by....
In: Strappy , more feminine, less chunky heels

Click Below for a Behind-The-Scenes, audience member video of the Runway Show (the fashion show begins at 2:50):


**UPDATE: Full Runway Show Below!**

Nick Verreos Looks at 2010 Spring/Summer Paris Haute Couture: Runway Videos!

COUTURE DAHHHLING!!!!!!
Sarah Palin Couture: Belorusian model Olga Sherer in her "Going Huntin' " ensemble

This season, John Galliano was inspired by Charles James, Standard Oil Heiress Millicent Rodgers, Dressage and the Turn-of-the-Century Gibson Girl. It was VERY old-school Dior; Monsieur Dior would have proud (I think). The show began with 1900's Equestrian suiting that if they were made several years back, would have end up in a W Magazine spread featuring Madonna and her estate in England. Lots of folding, pleating and Galliano continued his obsession with the full-front/fitted back look reminiscent of his "Egypt/Pharoah Dior Haute Couture Collection" back in 2004.A Met Couture Exhibit: Polish Runway Supermodel Magdalena Frackowiak looking like something out of a John Singer Sergent Painting

The collection seemed to be stuck on this "Equestrian Costume Diva" theme for a while until the full gowns came forth. They were marvelous in their technical mastery, draping and UBER femininity. The final gown, worn by Brazilian model Goddess Thana Kuhnen was VERY inspired by... the 1949 Dior "Junon" Gown. The petal scallop shaped hem and the delicate crystal beading were a definite homage. Click below to see the entire runway show:

Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2010 Haute Couture--
Part 1


Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2010 Haute Couture--
Part 2

Chanel Haute Couture: Love, Live, Silk Charmeuse...and Bermuda (Shorts)!For his Spring/Summer Haute Couture 2010 Chanel Collection, Karl Lagerfeld sent out heart-shaped hair with over-sized bows, fitted Bermuda shorts with the iconic Chanel jackets and lots of silk charmeuse/silk-back crepe. Asymmetrical cowl draping, lot of bias-cut, and hand-applied crystal embroidery throughout. Can't wait to see Chloe Sevigny try and work one of these $45,000 hand-made wonders in an upcoming Awards Show. I'm not so sure if any of Lagerfeld's jet-setting clients would go for the shorts-suit look but those silk charmeuse side cowl gowns are A MUST!!!!
Chanel Spring/Summer 2010 Haute Couture--Preview

Armani Prive: Over the "Moon" with Curviform!I honestly think this was one of Armani's best Prive Collections. I have been following all of his Haute Couture shows, season after season. And it has been very "hit-and-miss". Editors are somehow afraid to just come out and say it, but... some of his last collections have been a MESS: Tricky Hair, trickier draping, a bit too "dated" and 80's...and not in a good way. BUT... this Spring 2010 Prive Collection was TRES CHIC! One of his best. At least in my humble opinion. There was a Moon Theme, using half-moon Mother-of-Pearl brooches and curved shapes throughout.It was all about under-stiffening, buckram-backed ruffles and flutters. With all that, it was still 100 % romantic, feminine and Boy, I could see half of it at the Academy Awards! Speaking of Oscars, when I saw this gown above, all I could think of was actress Tilda Swinton. I know she's a fan of Viktor and Rolf and the more Avant-Garde designers but this off-the-shoulder stiffened neckline ivory princess-seamed Gown is SO HER!!!
Armani Prive 2010 Spring/Summer: Preview

Nick Verreos Attends "High Style: Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture"

Haute Couture Grand DameBetsy Bloomingdale, in a 1986 Marc Bohan for Dior Haute Couture gown, stands next to the Marc Bohan "Wall" at FIDM

The Event:
This last Saturday was the Black Tie Gala Opening of High Style Betsy Bloomingdale and the Haute Couture at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising/FIDM Museum and Galleries. Curators Kevin Jones and Christina Johnson spent three years scouring the hallowed closets of one of the most celebrated Grande Dames of Fashion, Betsy Bloomingdale. The Exhibit spans over 30 years of Bloomingdale's love and admiration for Haute Couture and fine fashion, ranging from her first Couture purchases in the 1960s to her last one; a black silk crepe and chiffon from the late designer Gianfranco Ferre for Dior Couture. The Exhibit runs October 21st to December 13Th.

The Scene:Glittering Tent: The Scene at the High Style Betsy Bloomindale/Haute Couture Gala

The tented party, held at the Grand Hope Park, adjacent to the FIDM campus was elegantly decorated with crystal "Chandeliers" dangling from its ceiling and greeted the VIP guests as they entered the party. In addition, exquisite white chairs, tables, mini-sofas, several fully-stocked open bars and delicious hors d'oeuvres tables "announced" to the gown-and-tuxedo crowd that this would truly be a very special event.

Seen On The Scene: Mary Stephens and Nick Verreos, Betsy Bloomingdale/Haute Couture Exhibit Opening Gala

As soon as I arrived, I spotted Mary Stephens, Director of the FIDM Advanced Fashion Design/Debut Program, looking both elegant and modern in a black ensemble. I jumped up and down (literally!) when I saw my good friend Jane Cha, Executive Producer of Project Runway. Her date was the incredible R.J. Cutler, director of the Vogue documentary The September Issue. Jane Cha and R.J. Cutler, Betsy Bloomingdale/Haute Couture Exhibit Opening Gala

Also seen were Buzz Aldrin--the second person to set foot on the Moon back in 1969 and his beautiful wife Lois--as well as philanthropists Iris Cantor and Barbara Davis. I heard that many of Betsy Bloomingdale's family came out for this illustrious event, including her two sons and one daughter as well as her grandchildren. Buzz Aldrin and James Galanos, Betsy Bloomingdale/Haute Couture Exhibit Opening Gala

I got a quick glimpse of the star of the night, Betsy Bloomingdale, who was looking fabulous in an iridescent orange taffeta gown from Marc Bohan for the House of Dior. One of the many highlights of the night was when I recognized one of my fashion idols, designer James Galanos. Of course, I had to stop him and say "hello". That moment made my night!

The Couture:
Nick Verreos at the Betsy Bloomingdale/Haute Couture Exhibit, FIDM Museum and Galleries

By the time I made my way inside the exhibit, I had only about fifteen minutes to do a mini-tour (I had another event to attend, the Kevan Hall Spring 2010 Runway Show at Universal Studios). From what I saw, it made my arms tingle with excitement, I must say. All the "masters" were there: Christian Dior Haute Couture from designers Marc Bohan and Gianfranco Ferre, Galanos, Adolfo, Givenchy, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and others. There were video montages explaining the clothes, the art of Haute Couture and exclusive interviews with Monsieurs Givenchy, Bohan, Fracois Lesage and Bloomingdale herself. Even in my quick visit, I caught juicy "Couture Dish" from the videos like how Mrs. Bloomingdale and her Couture friends like Nan Kempner and Lynn Wyatt knew their importance within the Couture Houses and how their vendeuses (sales ladies) ALWAYS gave them "the right price". Love the dish!There is also an entire section devoted to the croquis (or sketches) from the design houses that were sent to Mrs. Bloomingdale after she had made her selections. As I was leaving, I spotted one of my favorite pieces in the exhibit: A canary yellow silk taffeta Dior Couture gown that was displayed with its inner corselette turned inside-out, so the viewer can see the stunning intricacy that really makes an Haute Couture gown (photo above). I will DEFINITELY have to return to see the exhibit with more patience. It deserves two hours if not more! It is a MUST SEE for anyone who loves fashion and the art of Haute Couture. Forget going to Paris, it's all in Downtown Los Angeles at the FIDM Museum and Galleries!